the red fort

spent the morning at the al hambra. nasrid palaces beautiful-- carved plaster work, reflecting pools in central courtyards, arch after arch. evidence of the reconquista everywhere-- huge architectural differences between the moorish kings (modest and interior) and the christian conquerors (all about external pride).

beyond the walls granada, picturesque cluster of white houses on a hill. hard to escape the romance! very interesting to see the way the exoticism plays out in tourist venues and every day life. (what´s the difference?) the albacin in particular an interesting blend of postmodern surface and lived depth. why do we romanticize and reproduce the craft practices of those we fear, or think we´ve defeated? to what extent is the other a part of us? hah! go ask your analyst!

olive groves all over the hillsides.

i found a great little cafe bar in the more modern part of the city, where families admire babies, young african men sell pirated cds, and a boy bebel gilberto serendaded the drinkers of beer and tinto de verrano. the waitress was friendly, and patient with my minimal spanish. fed me gazpacho, sardines, octopus and sangria. delicious.